#культур_но

ГРАНЖЕРЫ: НЕМНОГО О КУРТЕ КОБЕЙНЕ И АЛЬТЕРНАТИВНОЙ СУБКУЛЬТУРЕ

Для начала разберемся, что такое “гранж”, и откуда дала истоки сама идея направления специфической субкультуры.
Направление сводится к музыкальному направлению “гранж”, что в переводе означает «грязь», «надрыв», «пренебрежение» – типу альтернативной музыки. Классикой гранжа считаются групы “Soundgarden”, “Alice in Chains”, “Stone Temple Pilots” и другие. Субкультура “гранжеры” появилась в 1990-1991 годах, и родоначальником считается небезызвестная группа “Nirvana”.

Группа "Nirvana". Источник: https://www.pinterest.ru/pin/761741724446982348/

В итоге появилось поколение, которое стремилось подражать кумирам во всем. В качестве повседневной одежды гранжеры выбирали мешковатые кофты в полоску или клетчатые рубашки, потрепанные кеды и джинсы. Волосы мужчины себе отращивали, чтобы быть похожими на Курта Кобейна.

Тексты песен гранж-исполнителей посвящались общественно-социальной проблематике, самоанализу, чем и привлекли людей в конце девяностых, хоть и многие гранж-группы к тому моменту уже начинали распадаться.

Какой он, “настоящий гранжер”? Его внешний и духовный вид соответствует понятиям отчуждения, одиночества, апатии и свободолюбия.
Гранжером мог быть как и тринадцатилетний подросток, так и уже тридцатилетние мужчина или женщина, как индивиды с устоявшимися личностью и мировоззрением. Гранжеры считаются одними из самых безопасных и неагрессивных “неформалов” среди всех успевших сформироваться субкультур, таких, например, как эмо, панки, или готы.

Гранжеры избегали театральщины, им ни к чему шик и блеск, они любили организовывать в подвалах своих же домов собственные музыкальные группы. Некоторым везло выступать на общественную публику, и даже тогда эти люди не церемонились: мятая рубашка, оборванные джинсы – так гранжеры доказали, что отсутствие образа само по себе может считаться образом.
Что до личности Курта Кобейна как примера подражания – его любили за харизму, философию, музыку, но в тот значимый и одновременно печальный промежуток времени по всей музыкальной индустрии прокатилась волна слухов об употреблении наркотиков участниками групп.

Для Курта Кобейна случился триумф в его карьере, но слава не возносила музыканта до седьмого неба, скорее, наоборот, низвергала в пучину депрессии и отчаяния. Курт в боролся с наркотической зависимостью и депрессивным расстройством и покончил с собой двадцать семь лет, в апреле 1994 года.

Курта Кобейна нарекли «голосом поколения X».

Его смерть назвали «катализатором заката гранжа»”.

 

По мнению редакции Vogue, «Кобейн свободно выбирал одежду как из женского, так и из мужского гардеробов, а его внешний вид, ассоциирующийся с комиссионными магазинами Сиэтла, породил [моду на] целый пласт мужской рабочей одежды в стиле лесорубов и женских платьев периода 1940-х — 1970-х годов. Это полностью противоречило вызывающей, вычурной эстетике 1980-х. В растрепанных джинсах и платьях в цветочек он смягчил брутальный имидж архетипного бунтаря изнутри и дал старт радикальной тысячелетней идее андрогинии». Его предпочтения в одежде «являлись антитезой образа мачо», музыкант изменил восприятие публики, «сделав крутыми сутулость и раскрепощённость, независимо от того, был ли ты парнем или девушкой».

Культуролог Джулианна Эскобедо Шеперд отмечала, что эксперименты Кобейна с платьями «не только сделали образ фрика нормальным [в обывательском понимании], они сделали его желанным».
Хоть и интерес к гранж-культуре сошел на нет после смерти Курта Кобейна, дизайнеры одежды еще вдохновляются живым образом музыканта и создают нечто новое, что навевает о девяностых; ровно как и музыканты нашего времени.

Источник: https://yandex.ru/collections/card/58ce341ab47883ebc0..

Закат эпохи гранжа пришелся на увеличение количества групп подобного направления и ухода его в мейнстрим.

Автор: Анастасия Белявская 

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